What kind of oil do you use for your blades?

Dimasalang · 27th November 2009, 06:25 PM

One thing to really keep in mind about linseed, it is not that great if you are restoring "decorative" wood. For instance, bunti wood with the nice grain on a barong that really stands out. In the wood working world, linseed is not that great for getting the grain to pop, reflect, stand out, glow, or give that 3D effect(chatoyance). You will still see the different grain sections, but it will be dull and not stand or pop out. Many wood workers have their own techniques and can use different methods to get grain to pop..it is like an art form. It is difficult to do since nearly all wood(even if the same type) can behave differently to the same techniques. Most popping techniques involve shellac and sealers. And I have heard some wood workers using Chromium Trioxide, which is a highly cancerous chemical, just to make the grains stand out(not a good idea IMO if you are always handling the wood). Down side of all this, these popping grain finishes typically do not last long ...a good 10 years and the pop will be fading; and the shellac or sealer can make it look extremely cloudy.
So, I guess it all boils down to what you want or have, and what you want to do with it. Bunti wood is very attract wood and can be just as decorative as curly maple...which is why I believe the Moros used the wood. For historical pieces I have or will acquire, I would use linseed. If I was restoring a piece and more interested in making it look nice and stand out, then linseed may not be a good idea.

A barong I have that had the handle refinished where the grain pops.

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27th November 2009, 06:25 PM	#11
Dimasalang Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 264	One thing to really keep in mind about linseed, it is not that great if you are restoring "decorative" wood. For instance, bunti wood with the nice grain on a barong that really stands out. In the wood working world, linseed is not that great for getting the grain to pop, reflect, stand out, glow, or give that 3D effect(chatoyance). You will still see the different grain sections, but it will be dull and not stand or pop out. Many wood workers have their own techniques and can use different methods to get grain to pop..it is like an art form. It is difficult to do since nearly all wood(even if the same type) can behave differently to the same techniques. Most popping techniques involve shellac and sealers. And I have heard some wood workers using Chromium Trioxide, which is a highly cancerous chemical, just to make the grains stand out(not a good idea IMO if you are always handling the wood). Down side of all this, these popping grain finishes typically do not last long ...a good 10 years and the pop will be fading; and the shellac or sealer can make it look extremely cloudy. So, I guess it all boils down to what you want or have, and what you want to do with it. Bunti wood is very attract wood and can be just as decorative as curly maple...which is why I believe the Moros used the wood. For historical pieces I have or will acquire, I would use linseed. If I was restoring a piece and more interested in making it look nice and stand out, then linseed may not be a good idea. A barong I have that had the handle refinished where the grain pops.