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Old 17th January 2015, 08:46 PM   #9
Robert
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
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May I ask you how you have closed the splits in the wooden handle?
Hello Detlef, Normally after warming the blade and removing it from the hilt and guard assembly I soak the wood for a few hours in distilled water to help soften and remove any built up dirt and debris and help prepare it for gluing. I then use a brush to remove any stubborn built-up contaminates. On this piece when I removed the hilt and guard assembly the hilt separated into two pieces like the gunong listed in this previous thread. http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...ghlight=gunong It also made it easier to clean the two surfaces for bonding as well as removing any old resin from the tang socket. After hand fitting the two pieces a couple of times to make sure both halves fit back together with no gaps I apply the glue. I use Elmer's Carpenter's Glue now as I cannot find the marine glue that I previously used. I apply a thin coating to both surfaces, align both pieces and press them together. Holding them in this position I then use 1/4 inch wide rubber bands and starting in the center wind them around the piece as tightly as I can get them cleaning any excess glue from the piece as I go. This is done for the entire length of the area being bonded. I then place a second layer of the bands over the first to make for a very strong and even pressure along the glue seams. I also use dampened cotton swabs to remove any excess glue that has been squeezed into the tang socket during the gluing process. The piece is then allowed to dry for a minimum of 72 hours before removing the bands. If you have been very careful the glue seam is almost invisible when when dried. After any glue that might have been missed during clamping I burnish the entire surface and hand rub it with tung oil until I get the desired finish. I then hand polish it using Ren Wax applied to a piece of sheepskin. I hope that this answers your question.

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Robert
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