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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 624
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Indian matchlock musket or Torador
Early 19 th century,Rajasthan ,North west India.Ivory and silver inlays 190 cms long Longest gun in my collection |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,731
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NIIIICE!! Very nice piece Rajesh. Some cleaning needed but that is to be expected.
\Stu |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND
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THANKS STU.,APPRECIATE YOUR COMMENTS,WISH I LIVED IN CHRISTCHURCH WOULD HAVE TAKEN SOME TIPS ON CLEANING,BIT SCARED SOMETIMES TO TOUCH OLD PARTS AS THEY CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED.ITS A VERY LARGE GUNA ND QUIET HEAVY NO WONDER THEY WERE CALLED ALSO AS FORT GUNS,REGARDS RAJESH
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#4 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,731
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I note that the trigger bar is obviously bent on your Torador. Needs to be straightened so that the trigger is inside the slot underneath, and more importantly so that it does not accidently get broken off. Stu |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 624
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HI STU,GOOD OBSERVATION,AM BIT SCEPTICAL ON ALTERING OR TOUCHING THINGS COZ A SACRED I MAY DAMAGE THE PARTS,BUT I GUESS I NEED TO START BEING MORE ADVENTURIOUS AND GET THEM RESTORED ,CHEERS
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 525
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Hello, try to use Steel Wool from Grade 00 (fine) to 0000 (superfine) and german oil "Ballistol" (penetrating oil). Steel Wool is not expensive and causes no scratches. Together with "Ballistol" (everytime after polishing with steel wool) and a lot of time, maybe you can see a damask pattern on the Barrel. Kind regards Roland |
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,731
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Stu |
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 624
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#9 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 624
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#10 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,731
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Stu |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 624
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REGARDS |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
Posts: 1,623
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Hi Bandook. That is a really decorative looking Torador. And should clean up nice. My cleaning methods are similar to Stu's. Work's fine.
By the way all, I actually have a spare trigger and spring assembly for a Torador. I bought it online figuring one day I or someone else might need it. Might be the only "spare" around ? LOL ![]() |
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#13 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 624
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
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Hi Rajesh. Yes, I do have one Torador in my collection. It's in good condition as-is. But I've decided to make a shooter, so I will be taking the barrel off this weekend and sending it to my gunsmith. It will require the plugged end of the breech being drilled out, with the breech being threaded and a new threaded plug installed. Also, burnishing the bore clean and a new pan cover made. This will also allow the gunsmith and myself to see how the breech end of the barrel is designed. We will take pictures during the process, and I will post here as progress is made. Wish me luck!! LOL.
![]() I have a third bedroom at home - which is no longer a bedroom LOL - that stores my collection. At present, it's a cluttered mess. ![]() |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
Posts: 1,623
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Here's a couple of pics of my Torador...
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#16 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 637
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linseed oil collects dust and never dries. It will weep if in a hot environment. beeswax with a little bit of olive oil applied hot is a better choice and more traditional.
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#17 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 624
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#18 | |
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YES ONCE YOU HAVE ORGANISED YOUR ROOM,DO POST PICTURES,WOULD LOVE TO HAVE A LOOK KIND REGARDS RAJESH |
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#19 |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 803
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Please pardon me opening up an old thread, but just a comment on Linseed oil;
To preserve and feed wood, raw linseed is best, especially if cut with turpentine, as this helps it penetrate. If after giving the stock all it can take, it is rubbed hard dry with a cloth, no surface build -up will occur, and no stickiness. After this initial "feeding", the stock can have a little oil applied Very sparingly, just a few drops, and rubbed out with the hand until it feels hot due to friction. Put it to one side for a while, then polish hard again with a cloth. This can be done at any time to refresh the finish and will do no harm. The problem with linseed, is if too much is applied and this can create a thick gummy layer as Ward describes, Especially if boiled linseed is used. With linseed, it is good to remember that the oil that is rubbed Off is what counts! Thanks for your time, Richard. |
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#20 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND
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THANKS RICHARD FOR YOUR INFORMATION,REGARDS RAJESH
WOULD YOU HAVE ANYTORADORS IN YOUR COLLECTION,PLEASE PUT THEM UP FO US TO VIEW,CHEERS |
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#21 |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 803
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Rajesh,
I do have one, (In need of repair) and a couple of barrels, but they are still in the UK at present. Still, I do have some photos, so may start a thread as time permits! Richard. |
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#22 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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THATS GREAT RICHARD,HOPE IT REACHES YOU SAFELY,GOODLUCK,REGARDS
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