A pair of Bali (?) keris, 2 of 2

[S.Workman]

Here is the second of my kris. This one has quite a lot of damage from rust, since it apparently sat in its sheath for a long time without care. I have gotten off pretty much all of the surface rust, but the pitting is quite troubling. There are two odd things with it, one is that the pitting is not black under sun light, it is silver. The other thing is that I was advised to use plumbers flux to remove the last of the corrosion, but that substance made a very dark, bruise like stain on the metal, and it was not easy to get that coloration off. This keris has a pamor noticeable even when cleaned. As with the first one, I am looking forward to reading any comments or suggestions the more knowledgeable might have.

[kai]

Hello S, welcome to our forum!

That's an honest keris Bali making a good addition to any beginning collection. Thanks for rescuing from it from years of neglect! On the pro side, the tip of the blade seems to have retained its original form which is not a given for an old blade! The stem of the scabbard looks like a recent replacement. Have a look at antique examples and try to work on it to give it a similar appearance.

I have gotten off pretty much all of the surface rust, but the pitting is quite troubling.

Obviously, there is no way to get the lost metal back. However, after warangan treatment, the contrast will be less noticeable.

The other thing is that I was advised to use plumbers flux to remove the last of the corrosion, but that substance made a very dark, bruise like stain on the metal, and it was not easy to get that coloration off.

I'm not sure I'd utilize this. Seems like you've done a pretty decent cleaning job though. I'd recommend to work the pitted areas with a fine needle under magnification to remove any remaining stubborn rust (including the tang). From the pics, there seem to be some scratches in the sosoran area; I'd remove them with a final round of polishing before proceeding to warangan. I'm sure the pamor will come out very nicely!

Regards,
Kai

[A. G. Maisey]

To clean pitting you first clean mechanically.

I use a saddler's needle in a saddler's awl, and do the job under magnification & very bright light, my preferred magnification is a 2.5 - 3 X jeweller's loupe.

If there is the possibility that there is still rust in the pitting, it can be spot cleaned with acid. My preferred acid for this purpose is dilute hydrochloric acid. You can use other acids, but dilute hydrochloric is not severe if you get it on your hands. It will have an etching effect on surrounding areas, but this can be easily polished back. In fact, dilute hydrochloric was used in the beginning days of the damascus revival in western knifemaking, as the preferred blade etch, until people discovered better solutions. Bill Moran used to use dilute hydrochloric exclusively for his etches.

Plumbers use dilute hydrochloric acid to clean copper pipes before soldering, they then may or may not use a flux in the actual soldering process.

However, people who need to clean or stain metal, including kerises do not use plumber's flux to do the job, they use dilute hydrochloric acid. The same stuff that is used by plumbers prior to soldering.

Looking at the pics of this keris, I would give it an overall polish with wet & dry paper, starting with probably 600 grit and working through to 1200 grit. I would then sensitise the blade with juice from fresh limes before immediately going ahead and staining it.

The already dark areas of pitting will be absorbed into the finished stain.

[David]

Same about the pitting, especially since this is the finer crafted keris of the two. But i thing you can probably make this blade look respectable if you work carefully.

[S.Workman]

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

To clean pitting you first clean mechanically.

I use a saddler's needle in a saddler's awl, and do the job under magnification & very bright light, my preferred magnification is a 2.5 - 3 X jeweller's loupe.

If there is the possibility that there is still rust in the pitting, it can be spot cleaned with acid. My preferred acid for this purpose is dilute hydrochloric acid. You can use other acids, but dilute hydrochloric is not severe if you get it on your hands. It will have an etching effect on surrounding areas, but this can be easily polished back. In fact, dilute hydrochloric was used in the beginning days of the damascus revival in western knifemaking, as the preferred blade etch, until people discovered better solutions. Bill Moran used to use dilute hydrochloric exclusively for his etches.

Plumbers use dilute hydrochloric acid to clean copper pipes before soldering, they then may or may not use a flux in the actual soldering process.

However, people who need to clean or stain metal, including kerises do not use plumber's flux to do the job, they use dilute hydrochloric acid. The same stuff that is used by plumbers prior to soldering.

Looking at the pics of this keris, I would give it an overall polish with wet & dry paper, starting with probably 600 grit and working through to 1200 grit. I would then sensitise the blade with juice from fresh limes before immediately going ahead and staining it.

The already dark areas of pitting will be absorbed into the finished stain.

I am gratified to hear that the black pitting won't really be visible. I think that aside from a very final polish with automotive papers and a lime juice wash that I am ready. It's tough to see in the pics, but I have polished up to I think 800 grit. Thanks so much for your help through this, I literally could not have done it without your assistance.

[S.Workman]

Originally Posted by David

Same about the pitting, especially since this is the finer crafted keris of the two. But i thing you can probably make this blade look respectable if you work carefully.

That is my hope. I am really quite anxious to get this very fine thing put back together.

[A. G. Maisey]

You are most welcome Mr. Workman, it has been my pleasure to assist.