Rasak Restoration.

Norman McCormick · 13th September 2008, 09:37 PM

Hi Guys,
I have been fortunate to add this piece to my collection. General photographs can be seen on my post Afghan Jezail?. Although I think it is a very nice item it does need a degree of restoration. The lock is jammed, there are nicotine deposits all over, some of the brass covering is coming away, there are probably small items missing and of course a general tidy up. I personally do not like to bring items back to pristine condition, I like the used look, but I do like where possible to have the relevant bits in working order. I will post close up photos of the bits that need attention asap. As usual I look forward to your views, comments and suggestions.
Regards,
Norman.

Atlantia · 13th September 2008, 10:01 PM

Its a beauty Norman, well done!

Regards
Gene

ward · 18th September 2008, 08:10 PM

so have you pulled the lock yet?

Norman McCormick · 18th September 2008, 09:08 PM

Hi Ward,
Was going to leave it until the weekend but done now. I have not had any experience with flintlocks but it would appear that the mainspring has disengaged from the hammer sear, I think this might be the original lock and the mainspring has come off and pushed the whole lock upwards causing the brass to be crushed on the upper part of the stock. I am not sure where to go from here. Hope you can help.
My Regards,
Norman.

ward · 18th September 2008, 10:56 PM

ok I need you to give me 2 more pics just like the 2nd and 3rd I have posted. The 2nd and 3rd need to be in full cock position. As you can tell the main spring is held by the sear but I can not tell from your pic if it is broken or just slipped

Norman McCormick · 18th September 2008, 11:04 PM

Hi Ward,
I am not able to pull the hammer back at all, it appears to be jammed or stuck.
My Regards,
Norman.

ward · 18th September 2008, 11:41 PM

ok in pic use see where it shows number 1 can you push this piece up and does it disingauge from sear?. if it does soak the piece with penetrating oil pull the striker to a open position if it will move and smack the hammer with a rubber hammer or a screwdriver handlle that is rubber . see if there is movement. If you can not get it to move you are going to have to unscrew things and I can pretty much promise you that those screws will break into pieces.

Norman McCormick · 18th September 2008, 11:47 PM

Hi Ward,
Have been able to get to your picture no1 but without spring engaged with sear. Can I use a G-clamp to compress spring to engage with sear.
My Regards,
Norman.

ward · 19th September 2008, 12:14 AM

vise grips would be better watch your fingers. also do not overtighten the spring to much or it will snap

Norman McCormick · 22nd September 2008, 06:20 PM

Hi Ward,
Have managed to get spring to engage with hammer sear but am unable to cock the lock, could spring have lost its springiness ? Managed to unscrew every bolt so cleaned and oiled lock and put back together. Have taken barrel out of its seating, active rust underneath and on top, rubbed down with soft cloth and WD40, see photos, is this enough or do you think I should use some fine wire wool and do a more thorough job? I'm not sure how far to go.
My Regards,
Norman.
P.S. Underneath the barrel is a profusion of stamps, anybody any ideas as to what or where?

ward · 22nd September 2008, 08:04 PM

Regarding the scrollwork on barrell I would bring it out a little more. 0000 steel wool on that and maybe on the top contours. you want to keep patina as much as possible but if you can not see details what is point. In Islamic societies they shine everything to a mirror finish I do not agree with this and most western collectors do not agree. There is a fine line between cleaning a piece and overcleaning it. Regarding lock I doubt spring is bad. If you have already gotten screws to remove pull of the cover to the sear and take pic. It should move but I need to see a little more. Always hard to see when not in hand. I will be at hethrow for a layover in a couple of weeks if you want we can meet and I can probaly tell you in a few minutes what is wrong one way or the other. Just a thought I Know scotland is not 5 minutes away but closer than america

Norman McCormick · 24th September 2008, 11:46 PM

Hi Ward,
Photo of spring and hammer sear without cover. I cannot cock the hammer with bits in position as per photo. I compressed the spring by external means to the next position and engaged the trigger sear, I was able to fully cock the piece but when I released the trigger the spring brought down the hammer as it should but it, the spring, disengaged from the hammer sear resulting in the spring protruding from the bottom of the lock just the same as when I first removed lock. I am sure there is too much wear between the mainspring and the hammer sear and this wear is enough to guarantee that they will disengage from each other every time. This is why the lock appeared at first not to fit or to be a replacement as the disengaged spring had pushed the whole lock upwards causing the crushing effect to the brass sheet adjacent to the top of the lock. Without either making new spring or new hammer sear I don't see how I can get lock to work properly, I think for display I will remove mainspring, keeping it safe of course, so that I can engage hammer in first cocking position so that the pan cover will close. If you have any other suggestions that would be great.
Thanks again for your help.
My Regards,
Norman.

ward · 25th September 2008, 12:30 AM

this is fixable. basically you need to beef up 2 areas the main is where the sear meets the spring and where the sear is in the safe condition. pick up some thin metal strips worse case brass.add a strip to the section that meets the spring. you can solder this and it will engage properly also where the trigger lever meets sear you could add a piece but that is secondary. will take about 1/2 hr for cutting filling and then soldering. I would not go to war with this fix but should last extreamly well for our purposes. If it is a issue ship the lock to me and I will fix it.

Norman McCormick · 25th September 2008, 08:36 PM

Hi Ward,
Many thanks for the advice, I'm keen to have a go at this myself but I'll keep your kind offer in mind. I have plenty of mild steel and EN45 spring steel which I have used for making blades before but no soldering iron, easy and cheap to get though. I use epoxy a lot in blade construction would it be strong enough for this or should I stick to soldering, stronger and more appropriate? Approx how much past the present end of the sear should I be aiming to extend. Thanks again.
My Regards,
Norman.

13th September 2008, 09:37 PM	#1
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,597	Rasak Restoration. Hi Guys, I have been fortunate to add this piece to my collection. General photographs can be seen on my post Afghan Jezail?. Although I think it is a very nice item it does need a degree of restoration. The lock is jammed, there are nicotine deposits all over, some of the brass covering is coming away, there are probably small items missing and of course a general tidy up. I personally do not like to bring items back to pristine condition, I like the used look, but I do like where possible to have the relevant bits in working order. I will post close up photos of the bits that need attention asap. As usual I look forward to your views, comments and suggestions. Regards, Norman. Attached Images

18th September 2008, 09:08 PM	#4
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,597	Hi Ward, Was going to leave it until the weekend but done now. I have not had any experience with flintlocks but it would appear that the mainspring has disengaged from the hammer sear, I think this might be the original lock and the mainspring has come off and pushed the whole lock upwards causing the brass to be crushed on the upper part of the stock. I am not sure where to go from here. Hope you can help. My Regards, Norman. Attached Images Last edited by Norman McCormick; 18th September 2008 at 09:59 PM. Reason: Rewritten + Photos.

18th September 2008, 10:56 PM	#5
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	ok I need you to give me 2 more pics just like the 2nd and 3rd I have posted. The 2nd and 3rd need to be in full cock position. As you can tell the main spring is held by the sear but I can not tell from your pic if it is broken or just slipped Attached Images

18th September 2008, 11:41 PM	#7
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	ok in pic use see where it shows number 1 can you push this piece up and does it disingauge from sear?. if it does soak the piece with penetrating oil pull the striker to a open position if it will move and smack the hammer with a rubber hammer or a screwdriver handlle that is rubber . see if there is movement. If you can not get it to move you are going to have to unscrew things and I can pretty much promise you that those screws will break into pieces. Attached Images

19th September 2008, 12:14 AM	#9
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	vise grips would be better watch your fingers. also do not overtighten the spring to much or it will snap Last edited by ward; 19th September 2008 at 02:33 AM.

13th September 2008, 10:01 PM	#2
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	Its a beauty Norman, well done! Regards Gene

18th September 2008, 08:10 PM	#3
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	so have you pulled the lock yet?

18th September 2008, 11:04 PM	#6
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,597	Hi Ward, I am not able to pull the hammer back at all, it appears to be jammed or stuck. My Regards, Norman.

18th September 2008, 11:47 PM	#8
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,597	Hi Ward, Have been able to get to your picture no1 but without spring engaged with sear. Can I use a G-clamp to compress spring to engage with sear. My Regards, Norman.

22nd September 2008, 06:20 PM	#10
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,597	Hi Ward, Have managed to get spring to engage with hammer sear but am unable to cock the lock, could spring have lost its springiness ? Managed to unscrew every bolt so cleaned and oiled lock and put back together. Have taken barrel out of its seating, active rust underneath and on top, rubbed down with soft cloth and WD40, see photos, is this enough or do you think I should use some fine wire wool and do a more thorough job? I'm not sure how far to go. My Regards, Norman. P.S. Underneath the barrel is a profusion of stamps, anybody any ideas as to what or where? Attached Images

22nd September 2008, 08:04 PM	#11
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	Regarding the scrollwork on barrell I would bring it out a little more. 0000 steel wool on that and maybe on the top contours. you want to keep patina as much as possible but if you can not see details what is point. In Islamic societies they shine everything to a mirror finish I do not agree with this and most western collectors do not agree. There is a fine line between cleaning a piece and overcleaning it. Regarding lock I doubt spring is bad. If you have already gotten screws to remove pull of the cover to the sear and take pic. It should move but I need to see a little more. Always hard to see when not in hand. I will be at hethrow for a layover in a couple of weeks if you want we can meet and I can probaly tell you in a few minutes what is wrong one way or the other. Just a thought I Know scotland is not 5 minutes away but closer than america

24th September 2008, 11:46 PM	#12
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,597	Hi Ward, Photo of spring and hammer sear without cover. I cannot cock the hammer with bits in position as per photo. I compressed the spring by external means to the next position and engaged the trigger sear, I was able to fully cock the piece but when I released the trigger the spring brought down the hammer as it should but it, the spring, disengaged from the hammer sear resulting in the spring protruding from the bottom of the lock just the same as when I first removed lock. I am sure there is too much wear between the mainspring and the hammer sear and this wear is enough to guarantee that they will disengage from each other every time. This is why the lock appeared at first not to fit or to be a replacement as the disengaged spring had pushed the whole lock upwards causing the crushing effect to the brass sheet adjacent to the top of the lock. Without either making new spring or new hammer sear I don't see how I can get lock to work properly, I think for display I will remove mainspring, keeping it safe of course, so that I can engage hammer in first cocking position so that the pan cover will close. If you have any other suggestions that would be great. Thanks again for your help. My Regards, Norman. Attached Images

25th September 2008, 12:30 AM	#13
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	this is fixable. basically you need to beef up 2 areas the main is where the sear meets the spring and where the sear is in the safe condition. pick up some thin metal strips worse case brass.add a strip to the section that meets the spring. you can solder this and it will engage properly also where the trigger lever meets sear you could add a piece but that is secondary. will take about 1/2 hr for cutting filling and then soldering. I would not go to war with this fix but should last extreamly well for our purposes. If it is a issue ship the lock to me and I will fix it.

25th September 2008, 08:36 PM	#14
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,597	Hi Ward, Many thanks for the advice, I'm keen to have a go at this myself but I'll keep your kind offer in mind. I have plenty of mild steel and EN45 spring steel which I have used for making blades before but no soldering iron, easy and cheap to get though. I use epoxy a lot in blade construction would it be strong enough for this or should I stick to soldering, stronger and more appropriate? Approx how much past the present end of the sear should I be aiming to extend. Thanks again. My Regards, Norman.