![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,658
|
![]()
Hope you don't mind me posting this....but I am very excited about it
![]() The item is pointed and made of metal and if you have ever watched 'Wile E Coyote' trying in vain to squash the 'Roadrunner' with one of these....you will know, it can be loosely described as a weapon ![]() ![]() The Anvil is HUGE 40" from the point of the 'beak' to the opposite end. Ideal area for blades. I am incredibly lucky to have obtained this, likely very old (could be earlier than 19th C) and very unusual because of its size. All comments or advice will be very welcome Regards David . |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
|
![]()
Fantastic.
remember how people used to make their own brickwork BBQs? Nice one of those with careful ventilation would produce plenty enough heat to get a sword bar hot enough to work. Probobly have to use heatproof bricks as you're gonna use it regularly. Use an old wrought iron grate out of a coal fire (set in of course). boot sales are a great source of BIG old hammers of various sizes. Of course the neighbours will love you! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 | |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Portugal
Posts: 9,694
|
![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Arms Historian
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Route 66
Posts: 10,191
|
![]()
LOL!! That is great David! Love the analogy about Wile Coyote and the roadrunner
![]() ![]() Really interesting piece, and I really like your approach to the hands on facet on sword study. I have never fully grasped the metallurgy end of things, and really admire those here who are so well versed in that perspective. It definitely adds new dimension in understanding and evaluating the weapons. I think you and Fernando bring neverending fascination into these threads with the incredibly eclectic things you guys find! Somehow it makes the discussions more three dimensional. Thank you! ![]() All the best, Jim |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
|
![]()
P.S.
Love the 'Stonehenge' rollers moving method! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,991
|
![]()
Looks like you scored well here.
Best anvil I ever used was one at Hawkesbury Agricultural College, when I was being taught by Gordon Blackwell. Beautiful old English one, 350pounds, and had almost no work since the day it had been made. You get a good big anvil, it does half the work for you. My own anvil is only 75 kilos, and made in Singapore. Not much of an anvil, but it does the job. I've got another little no-name anvil that I've had the work table precision ground on, that I can use for getting blades really true. How do you intend to mount this anvil? Might be a bit difficult to get a big enough hardwood stump. The stump needs to support the full base, and should go about 3 feet into the ground. You set the anvil height so that when you stand beside it with a clenched fist, your knuckles just brush the work table. The whole thing needs to be square, and the horn goes to your left. Anyway, nice anvil. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|