The other one

toniaus · 5th March 2006, 06:19 AM

This is the other keris I have inherited. Would I be right in guessing it is from Solo? The wood seems quite dry so I will try the wood oil as has been suggested, but is there anything I can do to stop the rust that has started from doing any damage. Also I was wondering (I know it's probably not an easy question to answer), but does anyone have any idea how old this or the other keris I posted under "help please" are? Oh and one more question any clue about the metal it has a few green spots so does that mean it's copper should I care for it in a special way? O.k that was two questions sorry.Thanks again x

BluErf · 5th March 2006, 09:12 AM

From the looks of it, this is a keris from Solo.

Try using sewing machine or any other kind of light neutral oil and a fine toothbrush. Give the blade a thorough brushing. use clean rags/tissue paper to clean off the rust (blot, not rub). Repeat oil-and-brushing until the oil blotted off no longer has rust in it (i.e. no longer brown/red).

Once this is done, you only need to clean the blade about once a month (assuming you keep the keris in a cool dry place).

There is a good possibility that this may not get some of more deep-set rust out. In which case, you might want to get in contact with of the more experienced collectors who can help you with cleaning the rust using more 'caustic methods'.

toniaus · 5th March 2006, 10:51 AM

I will give that a try thanks again for your advice I really appreciate it.x

nechesh · 5th March 2006, 04:51 PM

Welcome to the forum Toniaus. Both your keris have some real age to them, but i will stop short of pinpointing any period. Determining the tangguh of any keris is tricky in hand and extremely difficult based merely on internet photos. Some might offer their opinions anyway, but i would not chisel them in stone if i were you. I can see that yours are not modern keris and i would even guess they might be as old as 18thC or more (though i could be wrong).
This keris has one of the standing pamors or pamor adeg. It is indeed dressed in the formal (ladrang) Surakarta form so Solo is the probable origin. I doubt the green spots indicate copper unless you are referring to the metal part of the sheath (pendok), though that looks like it might be silver or some silver alloy (though mamas is more common). Have you tries a polishing cloth on it?
Blu Erf gave you some good advice, but i wouldn't be so hesitate about recommending more elaborate methods if the oil and brush doesn't fix your rust problem. Here's a link that might help you:
http://www.vikingsword.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000717.html
You might not want to go as far as the staining aspect discussed in this thread, which you would want to practice on some unimportant blades first i think, but the cleaning method is fairly safe and fool-proof and will remove deeper set rust.

toniaus · 5th March 2006, 10:15 PM

What a facinating thread, I was just having a conversation about cane toad poison being used on bayonets. Anyway apart from the talk of poisons it did contain some really great information. I'm a long way from any attempt at staining, but I will defininity try one of the non-arsenic methods of cleaning. I think I will try pinapple juice on one blade and coconut on the other. Do I have to be careful about the brass or silver fittings coming into contact with the cleaning liquid? Also should I finish after the bicarb with some oil? Well at the risk of being a gushy girl I really appreciate all the help I have received over the last couple of days, where have you been all my life E.A &A.F. x

nechesh · 6th March 2006, 12:13 AM

Toniaus, you would want to remove the blade (wilah) from the hilt. This is generally fairly easy because most often the tang (pesi) is fitted into the hilt by wrapping material or hair around it to make it fit tight. Every now and then you may run across a keris where pitch has been used and has hardened. Then you might need to heat the blade to loosen it. Twist the hilt (gently

) back and forth while pulling on the blade and it should come loose. Once you see how the blade is attached it should be easy for you to re-attach it.
Yes, definitely dry the blade completely at the end of the process and oil it.

5th March 2006, 06:19 AM	#1
toniaus Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5	The other one This is the other keris I have inherited. Would I be right in guessing it is from Solo? The wood seems quite dry so I will try the wood oil as has been suggested, but is there anything I can do to stop the rust that has started from doing any damage. Also I was wondering (I know it's probably not an easy question to answer), but does anyone have any idea how old this or the other keris I posted under "help please" are? Oh and one more question any clue about the metal it has a few green spots so does that mean it's copper should I care for it in a special way? O.k that was two questions sorry.Thanks again x Attached Images

5th March 2006, 10:51 AM	#3
toniaus Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5	thanks again. I will give that a try thanks again for your advice I really appreciate it.x

5th March 2006, 10:15 PM	#5
toniaus Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5	Thanks nechesh! What a facinating thread, I was just having a conversation about cane toad poison being used on bayonets. Anyway apart from the talk of poisons it did contain some really great information. I'm a long way from any attempt at staining, but I will defininity try one of the non-arsenic methods of cleaning. I think I will try pinapple juice on one blade and coconut on the other. Do I have to be careful about the brass or silver fittings coming into contact with the cleaning liquid? Also should I finish after the bicarb with some oil? Well at the risk of being a gushy girl I really appreciate all the help I have received over the last couple of days, where have you been all my life E.A &A.F. x

5th March 2006, 09:12 AM	#2
BluErf Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Singapore Posts: 1,180	From the looks of it, this is a keris from Solo. Try using sewing machine or any other kind of light neutral oil and a fine toothbrush. Give the blade a thorough brushing. use clean rags/tissue paper to clean off the rust (blot, not rub). Repeat oil-and-brushing until the oil blotted off no longer has rust in it (i.e. no longer brown/red). Once this is done, you only need to clean the blade about once a month (assuming you keep the keris in a cool dry place). There is a good possibility that this may not get some of more deep-set rust out. In which case, you might want to get in contact with of the more experienced collectors who can help you with cleaning the rust using more 'caustic methods'.

5th March 2006, 04:51 PM	#4
nechesh Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 940	Welcome to the forum Toniaus. Both your keris have some real age to them, but i will stop short of pinpointing any period. Determining the tangguh of any keris is tricky in hand and extremely difficult based merely on internet photos. Some might offer their opinions anyway, but i would not chisel them in stone if i were you. I can see that yours are not modern keris and i would even guess they might be as old as 18thC or more (though i could be wrong). This keris has one of the standing pamors or pamor adeg. It is indeed dressed in the formal (ladrang) Surakarta form so Solo is the probable origin. I doubt the green spots indicate copper unless you are referring to the metal part of the sheath (pendok), though that looks like it might be silver or some silver alloy (though mamas is more common). Have you tries a polishing cloth on it? Blu Erf gave you some good advice, but i wouldn't be so hesitate about recommending more elaborate methods if the oil and brush doesn't fix your rust problem. Here's a link that might help you: http://www.vikingsword.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000717.html You might not want to go as far as the staining aspect discussed in this thread, which you would want to practice on some unimportant blades first i think, but the cleaning method is fairly safe and fool-proof and will remove deeper set rust.

6th March 2006, 12:13 AM	#6
nechesh Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Cincinnati, OH Posts: 940	Toniaus, you would want to remove the blade (wilah) from the hilt. This is generally fairly easy because most often the tang (pesi) is fitted into the hilt by wrapping material or hair around it to make it fit tight. Every now and then you may run across a keris where pitch has been used and has hardened. Then you might need to heat the blade to loosen it. Twist the hilt (gently ) back and forth while pulling on the blade and it should come loose. Once you see how the blade is attached it should be easy for you to re-attach it. Yes, definitely dry the blade completely at the end of the process and oil it.