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#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Czech Republic
Posts: 841
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Please, within my restoring activities (or better attempts) I am looking for an advice how to "age" the new leather (on scabbard).
Regards, Martin |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 363
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Impossible.
I have been a professional restorer for over thirty years and have never been satisfied with any "trick" that claims to age leather. So, the thing to do is to get some old leather and use it. Get to know an antique furniture restorer/upholsterer. Leather covered chairs, sofas, etc. come in and the old covering is stripped away and disposed of. Different projects have different requirements: grips on swords and knives call for very thin material. Scabbards, thicker. Don't shy away from pieces that have cracking or shows that the surface has been distressed. It's hard to get a good piece of the right size no matter the condition. The distressing and cracking can work in your favor. The only kinds to stay away from is that afflicted by what is called "red rot" where the leather turns to powder and crumbles with even minor handling, and the kind that has become so stiff and brittle that it can't be bent even gently. Don't waste your time with either. The material used has to be able to withstand being manipulated. No neat's foot oils, lexol, Pecards leather cream or other "cure" will turn back the clock even a little. They even speed up its decline! Stay from them like the plague. If you must use them, use em on products that are still in current use, like shoes, belts, ladies' handbags, etc. but never on antique leather. Period. If my diatribe has not caused any of you to hit the back button and your curiosity has been awakened, I will be glad to give some advanced advice and more tips on the subject. |
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#3 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,287
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Leather Therapy restorer and conditioner .
I don't really wish to contradict others' wisdom; but this is one hell of a good product . |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 363
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It could be a great product for leather still in use, but all conditioners contain fatty acids or petroleum products that turn aggressive and hasten the decay. I have seen old stitching (cotton thread) break after application of some miracle product that makes claims of being scientifically formulated, etc., etc., etc.
In the last thirty plus years I have tried just about everything one time or another. All rubbish. If the leather in question is still in use, that's another thing entirely. Care for long term preservation is another matter entirely. And, with preservation, nothing is done to the object that can't be undone. You can't un-smear something that soaks into the body of the leather. Neutral waxes, like Renaissance Wax are the exception. They do not "feed" the leather, but lay on the surface. Do the research. I have. |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
Posts: 8,731
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Hello Shakethetrees,
I've used boot polish on some of my leather sheaths. The have get a nice look again. Was it a mistake? I think what is good for my shoes can't be wrong for the scabbards. ![]() Regards, Detlef |
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#6 | |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 363
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Czech Republic
Posts: 841
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Thank you all for your inputs. I think Shakethetrees perfectly understand my problem. I decided to complete nice central Asian sabre, i. e. to make new (old like) scabbard. I gave the order to the restorer (he is restorer amateur, by original profession he is silversmith). I am not satisfied with the result, since it is quite obvious at the first glance, that the leather cover is very new. I will do my best to make it "old" now, to make it fragile and dry. Currently, the "completed" sword looks like if you pack old romantic beauty to "disneyland". Shakethetrees unfortunately confirmed my suspicion, ie. that it will be very difficult, if not impossible.... Under such circumstances it is really better to leave old swords without scabbards, than to waste the money for doubtful results ...
Other inputs are concerning conservation/preservation of old leather (scabbards). This is also very interesting (and for collectors important) topic. I have good experience with ordinary beeswax and with anil shoe polish. As Shakethetrees said, the surface remains protected and, I think probably it is also more resistant to airhumidity changes and polution. All my items which I treated like this 15 yers ago are still intact (this is my amaterur evaluation, this is not expert´s receipe - who nows how in this way treated leather items will look like after fifty years). As far as old african shields are concerned, I tried lanolin dissolved in technical gasoline. It gives the shield its original weight and elasticity again. But such "penetrating" methods are, as Shakethetrees said, dangerous (as I heard - while using incorrect solvent proportions (too much lanolin) or another unrecommended fats or oils, the orgininal chemical structures/bonds could be detroyed in the leather and the item could slowly decompose. There is also aesthetic risk - dark stains could develop). There is also another problem, which I ll have to solve again soon: To enlarge original old and dry scabbard, which shrank during the years when the sword was out .... Best regards, Martin |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: What is still UK
Posts: 5,780
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You could leave the scabbard somewhere it is exposed to the weather, year long with some monitoring. Wind, rain, drying sun rather like a leather roof rack strap will soon look old. I find old leather will respond to olive oil. However really old leather has basically had it as suggested.
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,430
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From recent personal experience - I used one of those "leather dressings" on 19th century cracked and dried leather straps. Did not soften the leather in any way, just made it darker...
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Czech Republic
Posts: 841
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Active link
http://www.oriental-arms.com/item.php?id=3912 |
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,712
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Ahhh in that case dont bother etching again, if it was clear wootz or laminated it would show as Artzi would have already expertly etched it.
Spiral |
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