Russian cossack pistol

[corrado26]

Just to look at and for information:
A Russian miquelet pistol probably made in Georgia. The stock is made of two separat parts and interesting is the bulbous butt with an overcoat of red leather what I think is of a snake. The barrel bands are from silvered brass. The backstrap with niello decoration. The lock in good working order with a length of 69mm. Barrel length is 355mm and its calibre 14mm. Total legth of the pistol is 515mm
corrado26

[Helleri]

Does appear to be snake skin that's been (perhaps interestingly) properly upholstered on. Though it would be nearly impossible from looking at it to identify the exact species, given that any patterning has been obfuscated by heavy lacquering (likely with a linseed oil and ferric oxide lacquer) and cuts have made it impossible to accurately scale count. But they are rhomboidal non-keeled scales (matches for snake and not so much for other reptiles).

I say lacquering as apposed to dyed. Because any through-tan on snake skin, while making the color uniform, would still show darker and lighter areas of pattern. Lacquering makes more sense here because it imparts uniform color whilst making it smoother, so that the hand griping it doesn't peel up scales as much (scales of snakeskin tend to lift and peel when used as a grip, lacquer pretty much glues the edges of them that would otherwise lift down).

[Jim McDougall]

This is a beautiful and intriguing pistol!! especially that snakeskin. I had never imagined snakeskin being used in the Caucusus. Actually I had never thought of snakes there.
Any ideas as to what significance, other than perhaps simply aesthetic, may be at hand?

[Helleri]

Originally Posted by Jim McDougall

This is a beautiful and intriguing pistol!! especially that snakeskin. I had never imagined snakeskin being used in the Caucusus. Actually I had never thought of snakes there.
Any ideas as to what significance, other than perhaps simply aesthetic, may be at hand?

Well there are plenty of species of snake in that area of the world to source the skin from. Very few places in the world don't have any native snakes. Usually the only places where people live that one can expect less or no snakes are islands (though there are still plenty of islands that have a lot of snakes).

Something to note is that the maker went with a smooth/non-keeled species of snake. This has some significance toward aesthetics, as keeled scales (where each scale has a central ridge) are naturally matte in their finish; Whereas smooth scales are naturally shiny and often somewhat iridescent.

This piece at one point obviously had a lot of fire (gold gilding). Also that's a beautiful wood choice. So it makes sense that the maker didn't want to pair that with a dull skin even though it would have been an option. If you're going for shiny it's hard to beat a smooth scale snakeskin.

Also snakeskin doesn't really have a corium layer (that fuzzy suede like side that many leathers have). The backside is very paper like, which takes well to being glued. Overall a cured snakeskin is rather thin, flexible and not very elastic. It's an ideal material for this sort of application. Because it can be thinly applied with selective cuts to trace a shape without adding much in the way of bulk or weight.

[Jim McDougall]

Originally Posted by Helleri

Well there are plenty of species of snake in that area of the world to source the skin from. Very few places in the world don't have any native snakes. Usually the only places where people live that one can expect less or no snakes are islands (though there are still plenty of islands that have a lot of snakes).

Something to note is that the maker went with a smooth/non-keeled species of snake. This has some significance toward aesthetics, as keeled scales (where each scale has a central ridge) are naturally matte in their finish; Whereas smooth scales are naturally shiny and often somewhat iridescent.

This piece at one point obviously had a lot of fire (gold gilding). Also that's a beautiful wood choice. So it makes sense that the maker didn't want to pair that with a dull skin even though it would have been an option. If you're going for shiny it's hard to beat a smooth scale snakeskin.

Also snakeskin doesn't really have a corium layer (that fuzzy suede like side that many leathers have). The backside is very paper like, which takes well to being glued. Overall a cured snakeskin is rather thin, flexible and not very elastic. It's an ideal material for this sort of application. Because it can be thinly applied with selective cuts to trace a shape without adding much in the way of bulk or weight.

Thanks very much Helleri, these are truly interesting aspects on snakeskin, and even more encouraging for me personally. I have a pair of rattlesnake boots in progress right now, and I admit being a bit apprehensive on what to expect as far as durability.
I must admit, just as I thought when I made this choice, the snakeskin does distinctly make a statement in being unique.
This pistol instantly becomes more fascinating, I've never seen this on a gun like this, only on swords and weapons in Sudanese context.

[Helleri]

Originally Posted by Jim McDougall

Thanks very much Helleri, these are truly interesting aspects on snakeskin, and even more encouraging for me personally. I have a pair of rattlesnake boots in progress right now, and I admit being a bit apprehensive on what to expect as far as durability.
I must admit, just as I thought when I made this choice, the snakeskin does distinctly make a statement in being unique.
This pistol instantly becomes more fascinating, I've never seen this on a gun like this, only on swords and weapons in Sudanese context.

Rattlesnake is among the tougher (as is any viper really) kinds of snakeskin out there. The scales are keeled and they are rather thick. You don't have to worry too much about rattlesnake getting damaged with normal wear. If made properly the snakeskin will only be a shell that is glued and stitched on, in order to cover the structural leather beneath. Which would ideally be a shell cordovan (horse hide) leather.

You will want to get a soft bristle brush (a tooth brush should serve well) to remove food or dirt from under and between the scales if they get soiled. As well as a canister of rose water glycerine (the glycerine is the important part, the rose water just makes it smell good), in order to hydrate the skin every few months so it doesn't start shedding scales from drying out.

It also might not be a bad idea to by a snakeskin of the same species or that looks similar enough and some pliobond (brand name glue). That way when you do loose scales - which will happen over the years - you can tweezer pluck off a few scales from your spare skin and dot glue appropriate replacements. You may want to ask the cobbler for any "off-cuts" of snake skin used to make your commission.