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13th July 2014, 01:14 AM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Santa Barbara, California
Posts: 301
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New Barung... Chromed? Help!
Got two barungs at my lucky swap meet. This is the bigger one, blade length 17 inches, full length 23 1/2 inches, a hefty blade. It has a nice ring when tapped. The handle is simple, but looks like nice wood. The scabbard is tied together with red string, which may have been formally tied but has come loose with age.
The problem is... I think it has been chromed! Is there a way to remove the chrome? Should I remove it? Philippines experts, help me, please! |
13th July 2014, 04:40 AM | #2 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,219
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I would say a definite YES!
Now it may be chromed or it may be even worse: nickel plated. Nickel plating would be more difficult to get off than chrome, and would need lots of grinding and polishing. I say this from experience - I have taken off nickel plating off of several before. It was a practice in the 19c into the early 20c. Besides, if you want to etch and see the pattern in the steel, you need to get rid of this plating. |
13th July 2014, 05:11 AM | #3 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,198
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What a travesty!
The blade and ferrule have been plated. The scabbard and remainder of the hilt have been polyurethaned. I believe that a piece like this should be restored to how the native culture would have it. Strip the plated blade and etch it. Sand away the wood to its natural state and (maybe) stain it. And get Battara to make you a nice new silver ferrule. From what I can see of the blade it seems to have some age--perhaps a hidden treasure under that plating. |
13th July 2014, 07:07 AM | #4 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
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WOW Someone did make a mess of things. Looking at this I would say that the blade is the least of your worries. If it is chrome it can be chemically stripped off of the metal parts, but the underlying nickel (or if it is only nickel plating) needs to be hand sanded off to keep from doing more damage. I would also recommend that you use a chemical stripping solution on the scabbard as well as the hilt with little to no actual sanding. What I see as the biggest problem is the wooden hilt itself. In the photos I can see not only one but at least three cracks or possible clear brakes in the wood as well as what appears to be a missing section that will have to be replaced. If someone has tried to do any repair on this in the past getting what ever glue that might have been used to release can be a real problem at times as well. You have a fair amount of work ahead so just take your time, do not rush and I'm sure that when finished you will find that it was well worth the effort. If you do run into difficulties during the restoration process I am sure that if ask the forum membership will be able to help you with any question you might have.
Best, Robert |
13th July 2014, 11:56 AM | #5 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,712
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Ohh god, I had a WW1 issue kukri treated like that years ago...took so much work to get back to get it clean of the nickel & varnish. {pure Acetone eventually helped clear the varnish of that one though, softened it enough to nail brush it off over half an hour or so.}
What travesty's people do.. thinking at the time there preserving things... Spiral |
13th July 2014, 01:33 PM | #6 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 1,857
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Just curious....since the whole thing has been so heavily lacquered, is it possible that the blade and ferrule have been heavily lacquered as well, and that the corrosion we see is where the lacquer has popped off???
One sure way to tell is a lacquer remover like Strip-eze. This would be a far more hopeful.... |
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