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20th June 2006, 01:14 PM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 30
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Balatos
Acquired these 3 balatos in South Nias. Having seen what passes for tourist Balatos as well as the fake "old" Balatos, these 3 seem genuine as far as I'm able to determine.
According to the Niassan I bought these from, the top 2 are called Balato Tologu and the bottom one is called a Balato Balasala (his spellings). I had to assume the distinction between the Tologu and Balasala was in the shape of the blade. Couldn't get very specific due to language barrier. Zonneveld's book refers to a Gari "Telegu" and a "Telagoe" but not a Balasala. Unless Balasala = Balatu Sebua. Of the 3, the top 1 in the first 2 pics has the best carved Lasara hilt which also happens to be the one with 3 pieces broken off. I'm kind of ticked off about that. I have the pieces but need to know what is the best way to glue it on - Superglue? |
20th June 2006, 01:17 PM | #2 |
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Posts: 30
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Pics of the lasara hilts from bottom 2.
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20th June 2006, 05:27 PM | #3 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: OKLAHOMA, USA
Posts: 3,138
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VERY NICE INDEED!! IT IS NICE TO SEE THREE VARIATIONS AT ONCE AND EVEN BETTER TO HAVE BEEN ABLE TO AQUIRE THE 3 AT ONCE. CONGRADULATIONS!
I SUSPECT YOU ARE RIGHT AS TO THE BLADE BEING THE REASON FOR THE DIFFERENT NAME ON THE THIRD EXAMPLE ITS POMMEL IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT FROM THE USUAL BUT I AM SURE REPRESENTS THE SAME THING AS THE OTHERS. I USUALLY DON'T LIKE THE USE OF ALUMINUM ON WEAPONS BUT THE SCABBARD YOU HAVE I LIKE A LOT AND IS VERY WELL DONE. THE FETISH BALLS ARE NICE HAVING THE CARVED FACES AND DESIGNS ON THE WOOD TEETH AND WITH THE PIG TEETH, ARE THERE ANY CROCODILE TEETH MIXED IN? I WOULD USE ELMERS WOOD GLUE TO GLUE IN THE SMALL CHIPS IT IS MUCH MORE FORGIVING THAN OTHER GLUES. YOU CAN PUT A LITTLE GLUE ON BOTH PEICES THEN PRESS IT INTO PLACE , HAVE A WET CLOTH AND A SMALL ARTISTS BRUSH WITH WATER HANDY YOU CAN THEN REMOVE ANY EXTRA GLUE THAT COMES OUT EASILY. THE ELMERS DOSEN'T LEAVE THE SHINEY FINISH IF ANY GLUE GETS OUT ON THE WOOD LIKE EPOXYS. IT ALSO DRYES SLOWER ALOWING YOU TO REPOSITION OR SOAK IT A LITTLE TO SOFTEN THE GLUE TO TRY AGAIN IF IT ACCIDENTALY GETS OUT OF PLACE WHILE DRYING. GOOD LUCK |
20th June 2006, 06:33 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 30
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In addition to a deer horn, there are a couple smaller teeth adorning the basket on the 1st piece which I can't really figure out. They lack the striations like growth rings evident on the big boar tusks. Might be tooth from crocs or young boar tusks?
The 2nd balato's basket actually encloses what looks like another tusk. Can't really get a clear look since the external pieces are pretty tightly knit shut around the basket. Initially thought it might have just been a piece that fell in but it's not stained like the externals. Actually forgot that there's such a thing as wood glue, duh. Heh. I've been working in technology way too long. |
20th June 2006, 07:45 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Italia
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Hello Micas, could you give the thickness of the blades? Thank you very much.
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20th June 2006, 08:15 PM | #6 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,291
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Quote:
I used to have a very nice older example with a large boar's tusk ball ; it now resides in the collection of this forum's founder . One must take care in preservation of the tusks as they tend to flake and get brittle with age . |
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21st June 2006, 12:43 PM | #7 |
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Flavio: Here's a couple pics with measurements.
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20th June 2006, 05:16 PM | #8 |
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Location: What is still UK
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How nice to have three, I am still waiting. In this case I think it would be okay to use super glue as it looks like the repair will be almost invisible. PVA wood adhesive is normally my first choice when resorting to glues as it is general purpose, can be watered down, dries clear, is reversible, can be mixed with other substances to make matching pastes and made to match old grime with artists oil pastel and wax crayons.
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