Removing the pins
Taking them out requires some technique but it's not such a frightening procedure. First, find some thick sheets of rubber, or scraps of old carpeting, one should be large enough for the entire pistol, also a few smaller pieces too.
You will need a machinist's drift punch, designed for precisely this type of operation, available at many tool stores. Get one (or two, since they can bend) that are of same or smaller diameter than the pins in question. The useful thing about these tools is that they have an expanded "handle" which is easier to strike accurately with a small hammer. Much safer than using an old nail or something like that.
Locate the pins you need to remove. Look for one side that is bigger than the other end, if that is the case you need to drive out the smaller end. The difference in diameter, if it exists, will be very small. Sometimes the surrounding wood looks like removal of pins was done before during the gun's working life.
Lay the pistol on the big sheet of rug or rubber. Use the smaller pieces underneath, here and there, for added support if needed and to provide some clearance underneath the pin you want to drive out.
Now, very important, align your punch so that it is in-line with the axis of the pin. This may be a different angle from the 90-degrees to the tangent of the stock surface at the end of the pin. You must drive the pin in the same direction as it is oriented in the stock, otherwise you run the risk of slipping and marring the wood. Tap gently. Check the other side to be sure the wood grain is not raised in slivers (sometimes this is a risk if the wood is swollen by oil). If things look OK, keep tapping until the pin is out. You can pull it out from the other side if there is enough exposed pin to grab with a needle nosed pliers.
Please share pics once your cleaning operations are finished. These are an attractive and good quality pair of pistols.
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