To thank you very much, Mick, and all forumities, for the compliment. I personally felt that this compliment should not be addressed to me, but to my elderly "gurus" and fellow keris' devotees. I'm just conveying a little bit of knowledge and experience that I thought I have, and just in thirst to learn more. I'm happy to see that my posts would "make senses" to many forumities. I would ask all the forumities though, to remind me if I'm wrong or out of the line.
Nechesh, I'm very glad that you are able to stain/etch the blade. Even in Java, only a few collectors are able to properly do it. It takes patient and a lot of practices to master. It also takes times, and time is money. But I urge any serious keris collectors to master this skill because traditionally, it is the owner himself who should maintain/clean his pusakas
My claim that brushing technique only practised in Jogja is false then. (And I'm really glad I'm false in this case
). It based mainly on my observation in Java that most, if not all, "professional etcher" use the immersion technique, simply because it's more efficient and cost effective while working on a lot of blades.
As long as I recall, gold inlay would not be affected by warangan solution. I have personally etched some kerises/spearheads with gold inlay, and it's okay. The color of gold would only came brighter
. Until today, I've not heard nor seen any gold inlay being affected/ruined by warangan from my fellow collector/etcher. Remember though, I (and many etcher I know), use undilluted
Citrus aurantifolia juices (key lime, according to Wikipedia
or limau/jeruk nipis in indonesia/malay). Don't forget to cleanly peel off all the lime's skins for all processes (methak or making solution). It contains some oil which may make the blade yellowish, and thus may also ruin the solution. Use yellowish ripe limes only, not a green ones. 1kg of good, ripe limes will give approx. 1 liter juice.
Just be careful on brushing or you will peel off those gold foil. I personally use 1" paintbrush to apply the warangan. Just cut the brush a little to make it stiffer. Toothbrush would be only used on "methak" and washing-the-warangan's process. Water, indeed, play an important part. I also observed that tap water which may contain some fluoride do make the blade slightly yellowish. Well water is better for me. Distillated would be the best, but may cost me more. As long as you follow this "old recipee", I bet you are on the save side
You may buy realgar on traditional chinese's drugstore, if you manage to find one. Scientifically, arsenikum called 'Shen' in chinese. Commoners will call it 'Bi Shuang' (pee -soo-ang). Chinese traditional physician/medicine man would called it 'Hung Sin Se' for red realgar (the ones you should buy) or 'Pai Sin Se' for white (?) one. I'm not a chinese nor speak mandarin language. Just my fellow collector told me. My friends also told me that common realgar trading on traditional market in China has been banned, since some criminals used it on poisoning peoples. So, it might be a little bit harder to find, but the fact that it is still exist in Indonesia today surely suggest that it is still possible to find it. Realgar should be the first choice for etching kerises since it is much safer and, some say, gives more "live' to the blade. Just pick a good, orange-red/pink to deep purple crystal ones. Anyway, Jogjakarta court use As2O3 in their heirlooms cleansing ceremony
Thank's for the link, Nechesh. Wong Desa knew what he was talking about. It is right that you couldn't have the best appearance on the first shot, especially on a long-time abandoned and corroded blade. It takes 2-3 times. Just let 1 or 2 months in between to let the warangan "react" more, and pick the "dirt" from the keris' pores. Putting some more oils and keep it wet would also help the process. Just keep the oil away from the sheath or ivory handle or it will stain the sheath/handle.
wish may help.