Peter,
Alan directed me to this thread, and I must say thanks very much. What a fascinating piece. Based on the construction details of the piece I'm inclined to his opinion that it is a Spanish armour survival, though I wouldn't hold myself forth as any sort of expert.
That said, I have a number of questions about the piece which I hope you can answer, some of which may shed some further light:
The Fabric Substrate
It appears from the pictures to be a fairly heavy tabby-woven material. That said:
- Can you tell if it is linen, cotton, or hemp?
- In your third picture with the scales turned up it appears to be set on the bias to the lines the tape and scales are sewn on. Is that correct?
- In the same photo the edge of the fabric is shown. Is it a selvedge edge, or is it bound?
- If bound, what stitch was used?
The Tape
- Can you tell if it is linen, cotton, or hemp?
- How wide is the tape before folding?
- Am I correct in thinking that the fold in the tape is at the top edge where it is sewn down?
- In the picture of the nut is the seam shown below the nut the other side of the seam holding the tape down?
- Can you tell what kind of thread was used - Linen or cotton?
- What stitch was used?
- How long are the stitches?
The Lining
- Can you tell if it is linen, cotton, hemp, or silk (silk linings in fabric armours are known)?
- Is the scrap of fabric under the nut a piece of the lining?
- If yes, can you tell what the weave looks like a twill to me. Is that correct, or is it just an artifact of the angle of the shot?
The Top
- There seems to be a strip of tape at the top edge of the garment. It appears to be over the top row of scales' rivets. Is that correct?
- If so, how is it secured to the substrate, lining, and face of the scales?
Thanks very much!
Nicholas Cioran
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