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Another Moro Kris for comment!
6 Attachment(s)
Hi,
I'm lurking for more info about my new "friend". The more info you guys can give me, the better! :D |
What material is the kakatua made from ?
The carving at the pommel base is unusual to me at least . :shrug: IMO an older blade than hilt . |
This kris has an older blade but the hilt is a later addition 1950 or so. Does not look like the neatest job seems to have a bit of solder in areas.
Lew |
Old blade but the hilt looks to be very receint, doubt it is Moro & likely just made. Brass on scabbard looks brand new also.
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It is ivory. |
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It has some solder in areas at the hilt. It seemes to me that the loose parts (at the grip) are soldered together because they went loose. |
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Bill, in the ivory part there is a crack visible which they filled to restore (so it is not brand new). The brass on scabbard was polished when it arrived. There were some rests of white polish on it (and the smell of polish). maybe overcleaned? |
My guess would be that the pommel and probably the hilt as well were married to this blade specifically for the collectors market. Certainly the pommel wasn't carved yesterday, but it looks like the latter half of the 20th century. Stylistically it looks a bit off and doesn't have the grace and curve of earlier pieces. Something not quite Moro about it, but that could just be in the level of execution. Are you sure it's ivory. Pictures can be decieving, but it looks more like bone to me. :shrug:
The blade, as commented on, is much older, probably late 19th - early 20thC. |
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I'm pretty sure it is ivory. When you look at it in reality it lookes different as in the photos where it looks pretty white. But I will let a good friend collector of me look for a second opinion to be sure. Till then I have no reason doubt the description of the seller that it is ivory. :rolleyes: |
Thanks, Maurice, for posting your kris!
BTW, what's the length of the blade? Quote:
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Regards, Kai |
[QUOTE=kai]
The grip rings look legit but I also suspect that the pommel is a replacement; possibly also the brass ferrule. The grip rings are machine made, you can buy them from large jewlery suppy houses (you buy by the inch) & the ferrule has been cut with a rotary drill like a Dremel. It appears to be ivory but I'm not sure what type. Because a crack has been filled does not suggest age, rather the project was started with a cracked piece. I have a Ivory kris that has fairly good providence that it was made around 1965 & already has patina. Someone went to a lot of effort & spent on materials.Everything but the blade, stirrup, & perhaps the wood from the scabbard is done within the last 5 years. |
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I noticed the blade screams for an etch, but I have to try finding out what is the best way of etching the blade. I am not familiar with that. Maybe when you have some time left you sent me an email how to do it step for step, and what time it takes. Generally: Thanks gentlemen for sharing all your vision on my "friend". :) Kind regards, Maurice |
Hello Maurice,
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I'd love to hear wether others would place this as Maguindanao. Quote:
The line of separation of the gangya as well as the file work make me think 1900-1930 as most likely period. I can't positively exclude a late 19th century origin though. Wether a blade got forged a few years before or after that turn of the century doesn't make a decisive difference regarding craftmanship IME. There are fairly "basic" mid 19th century blades and excellent early 20th century blades... IMVHO one always has to evaluate the craftmanship of any given kris (if desired) rather than going by any classification criteria. Quote:
Here a short exposition of my basic routine (some info added for less experienced readers but far from comprehensive - please ask questions if not 100% sure!): I start with any cleaning needed (fruit juice or vinegar), followed by any polishing (by hand) if needed. Wrap hilt with plastic foil for protection or, preferably (if possible), remove hilt. Degrease thoroughly (important for getting an even etch); heat vinegar and blade and apply generously (careful: Moro blades like to take a bite!). Stop if the staining looks nice. Wipe off the vinegar with an oiled cloth and heat the blade to boiling temperature (not much higher!) for a few minutes - this ascertains that no residual vinegar/water is left on the blade nor in any crevices of the steel (to avoid ongoing corrosion). Be careful since this may be hot enough to losen the resin attaching the hilt if you haven't choosen to remove the blade to begin with (which greatly helps to ease things but can be unpossible without ruining old grip wraps which would be a shame). Finally, oil the blade (let it "dry," wipe off excess oil) and/or wax the blade as preferred. It's not rare that you can see some pattern but can't get it nicely visible (if the blade got polished with power tools, it's not rare to see no pattern to speak of at all). A few rounds of gentle polishing and repeated etching can do wonders in those cases... Regards, Kai |
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I didn't want to sound too paranoid but Bill seems to be right... :o Quote:
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Regards, Kai |
HI folks - been away for a couple of days. ....I won't repeat what has already been said. I will say that the entire hilt is brand new - the silver work has rings that were made of cast pattern wire made within the past 10 years and then soft soldered, not the kind of work done back then nor of great quality. Also the brass work at the bottom is engraved - again not what was done in true Moro work and the engravings are poorly done. The pommel I suspect is plastic or some other material other than ivory. If ivory, not old ivory and roughly carved and done in a style not in keeping with Moro traditions of even the early 20th century.
I would be curious to see if the blade is laminated - ganga looks like it could be separate, but can't tell as easily from the photos. Sorry for the bad news. :( |
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