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Bedoein sword?
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Picked up this very worn sword for the price of a pizza and a half.
Attachment 251828 Attachment 251829 Attachment 251830 It has the typical triple fullered blade you see on Moroccan nimcha and lots of other swords from around the world and horn grip scales. The shape of the grip looks a lot like those of Bedouin swords, but it's missing some of the decorative elements that are typical for the group, so I'm not quite sure. Do you think this is an accurate identification? For reference, here's the type of sword I'm thinking of: Attachment 251831 Attachment 251832 |
Hi Nathan,
I am far away from being an expert on these swords but I think that you are correct with your attribution! You will have a lot of work with cleaning the blade! ;) Regards, Detlef |
Nice find, but as the interminable cleaning process grinds on, you may wish you'd opted for the pizza.
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I likes em as they are! rough,
This seems, by the hilt style, to be Bedouin alright, and of forms in Sinai Peninsula, but of course hard to be exact. |
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Yup, bedu. Also Sinai area, as Jim mentioned.
Mine for comparison: Mine is missing the silver band on the pommel end of the horn grip. |
[QUOTE=werecow;302787]Picked up this very worn sword for the price of a pizza and a half.
Congratulations, a very interesting subject. And the chores of cleaning always bring pleasure.:D |
Congratulations from me as well, these swords are not all that easy to find in my experience. I used to dread cleaning heavily corroded blades like this when I was trying to do it by hand, but since I discovered chelation agents, which do the work quickly and easily and only attack the iron oxide molecules, without harming the blade underneath, it is no longer a problem.
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What Product Do You Use
TVV,
I use a US made chelation product called Evapo-Rust. I totally immerse the blade in the solution for 24 to 48 hours in tanks I have specially made. It works quite well for red rust but isn’t very good on black rust. Do you use a different product that works well on black rust? Sincerely, RobT |
Thanks all! Nice to have that confirmed. I already soaked the very dried out grip in neatsfoot oil for a day but a large chunk has started to peel off, as you can see in the pictures. Not sure what I should do there. Just leave it be, or...?
As for the blade, I will give it an initial light cleaning to get rid of active rust and will save the rest of the work for when I can sit outside. :cool: Quote:
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Yeah, I've actually been meaning to try out this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhzNttK_-ko https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCltNiN_LGc Might be a good candidate for it. |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVYZ...qPtn56&index=1 |
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His name is Dave, btw. I learned that maybe a week or two before he moved to another country. I probably could have guessed at random since this meetup was maybe 20% daves. :D |
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One more question. I want to stabilize this bit of horn that is sloughing off on the grip so that it doesn't get worse. I was thinking of just putting a few drops of glue in there to fill up that crack. Is that an acceptable repair? And if so, what glue is best for antique horn?
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To remove rust, I use 3% iodine monochloride (ICl), which removes all rust down to the bare metal.
It's available at pet pharmacies. The vapors it releases are harmless and can be reused. Apply with a brush, and wear gloves when using. |
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Alright, that seems sensible enough, thanks!
Also, let's cross-link to a couple of other threads for future navigability: Bedouin? Saber Bedouin Sabre And a few examples from elsewhere: ARAB BEDOUIN SWORD SHASHKA CA.1900 Good Bedouin Sword from the Sinai Peninsula - 9767 Acquisition of late 19th to early 20th century sword |
Easy rust removal....suitable piece of PVC tube and White Vinegar. Just leave blade in the vinegar as long as it takes. You will see almost immediate progress. A very cheap and safe method.
Stu |
Dry Clamp First & Use A Clamp To Glue
wildwolberine,
Before you do the glue up, dry clamp it first. Make sure you use wood pads (known as cauls) to protect the hilt from the hard steel jaws of the clamp. If the part of the hilt that is separating can be drawn back down fully, you are ready to glue up. When you apply the glue (all crafts 2 part epoxy is my favorite), use as little as possible to make sure that no glue will squeeze out to become visible when the clamp is applied. I would recommend using a clamp rather than a zip tie because the clamp can provide far greater pressure. I would probably opt for one of my Jorgensens but even a c-clamp will do. Sincerely, RobT |
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