antique kris renewed
 

I already partially restored this kris (blade only) and posted it in this forum a few months ago.I do not have the materials to restore the hilt and scabbard. Hence ,I sent it to Jolo for restoration. The handle was originally wrapped with rubber so I asked the artisan to replace it with silver wires. Upon removal of the rubber there was a green textile wrapped around the handle which I decided to retain. The stirrups and scabbard fittings are also replaced with silver.

Looks much better as before also when I am not a fan of the green fabric.
But what disturbs the overall impression is the wooden pommel IMVHO.
It looks very dry, oil it with linseed oil and polish it with steel wool 000 and antik wax. It will be a nice wood but needs some care. Just my humble opinion.

Regards,
Detlef

BTW, the same is guilty for the scabbard wood.;)

Were the green fabric and the wire there originally, and if not what was was there before your cleaning?

See posting #1 and this thread: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=27217

I'd guess that the green fabric is about as old as the plastic tape.

The pommel does not seem to be banati/bunti wood; it certainly deserves some TLC as suggested.

Regards,
Kai

Hello Kai,
Agree. But we can't be sure without handling it. :shrug:

Agree again. It will be a wood like from this pommel in the picture. But it should look similar. ;)

Regards,
Detlef

Another non banti pommel.

thank you for the advice Detlef. I just applied linseed oil on the pommel and scabbard.

Let us see the result when the wood cure is finished. ;)

There are some good suggestions here for the replacement of the green fabric. It is not terribly hard if you can find the right gauge of twine. You may have to paint and lacquer it once applied.

I am still looking for some clear instructional guidance on how to do twine wrapping on kris hilts in a traditional and attractive manner. I don't want to simply wrap a piece of twine around a hilt. There are traditional braiding methods that i would like to replicate. Any leads on such instruction would be appreciated. :)

I suggest trying a lighter etchant as well...so that the blade would not look burned. Here's an example I'm working on right now.