Need help with this one....
 

Hi... This is my first post in this Keris forum.... I have no experience at all when it comes to Keris.... I got this one today and I really need your help.... Any opinions at all are very much appreciated....
Sorry for bad pictures....

Best,
Stefan
Sweden

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Interesting Moro Kris/Kalis, the gangya* looks like it may not be a separate piece as is more normal in pre-ww2 (1930's and earlier) items. I can see what may be just a well fitted gap line tho.

Dimensions, blade length, length overall would help too. (I can't quite read the tape measure)

* - see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalis#...menclature.jpg

and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalis

Interesting kris. I'd say that the gangya is indeed separate (though i can't be sure). The blade could be a bit older than the dress. The style of hilt does look more post WWII, but it is nicely done. Are the metal bits actually silver? Some look like they could be. Also looks like there is a coin placed between the hilt and blade. Can you see what that coin is and if there is a date (though that doesn't necessarily date the blade). Over all it seems a nice example of this type.

Welcome to our little forum!

I would agree with the opinions so far. This is an early 1900s Maguindanao blade with 1950s hilt and scabbard. The hilt looks to be made of chased and filigree nickel silver and brass/bronze pieces. As far as the scabbard is concerned, the wood appears to be palm wood(?) and the mounts perhaps silver plated tin(?).

However, if you etch the blade, you might find laminations in it. And yes I do see a separation line on the ganga, not an engraved line (a good sign of being a more quality blade usually).

By the way, are those measurements in inches or centimeters?

It’s centimeters, not inches.
First, they are too tight for inches, but most importantly, Stefan is from Sweden:-)))

Hi Stefan,

This is not a keris but a kris since it's from the Philippines. Good old blade, end of 19th to very early 20th century with later handle and scabbard. Have you tried to polish the metal parts? And I would polish the blade and would give it an etch with vinegar, it will show a nice lamination IMO.

Regards,
Detlef

Thank you so very much for your inputs. I really appreciate it!
Yes, it is a coin placed between the hilt and blade. It looks like 25 centavos and the one they made between 1958-1967.
Are the metal bits actually silver? I really do not know…

When it comes to the scabbard I do not know what kind of wood it is yet but I can say that the wood is very dry.

I haven´t done anything yet when it comes to polish the metal parts….Got it yesterday….
Sounds like a good advice Detlef, to polish the blade and give it an etch with vinegar but shall I do that myself…. I do not think so…. My thumb is in the middle of my hand so to speak….:)
I want it to be properly done by someone who know what he is doing because I do not want to destroy anything….

Have seen it so many times when it comes to old Winchester lever guns…. Guys who thought the knew what they were doing…. Sure! I believe more in Harry Callahans: “A man´s got to know his limitations”.

Again, thank you so very much for your inputs… It is amazing how much knowledge you can find here in this forum.

I am so very happy for my Moro Kris and as my first one I didn´t do so bad, I think.:)

Best,
Stefan

[QUOTE=Hombre...

I am so very happy for my Moro Kris and as my first one I didn´t do so bad, I think.:)

Best,
Stefan[/QUOTE]

Yup, nice start, I like them more than theIndonesian/Malay Keris, which are more esoteric and ceremonial, With tons of hidden magic and meaning - which many here are enamoured and can shed light on many subtleties. The Moro Kris, tho it has it's own variations, is first and foremost a weapon. In the Phillipenes, Barung/Bolo/Ginunting, etc. are still go-to choices, especially in the jungles where a rifle can be difficult to manouver.

Stefan, fortunately you can do no real harm cleaning and polishing the blade, and then etching it with a weak acid. Vinegar will give you a superficial etch, and if you don't like the result you can simply repolish the blade and the etch will come off easily--just don't etch to the point that significant metal is removed. You will see a pattern long before you have done any lasting damage to the blade.

The hard part is the cleaning and polishing which will take some time and can be rather tedious. I don't use any sandpaper that is coarser than a 200 grit, and then move on to 400 and 600, and even 1200, for the polish. Polishing and etching is easy and you should have no problems. You may need to try something stronger than vinegar, in which case I would suggest trying ferric chloride. Start with a dilute solution, say 10% in distilled water, and don't go any stronger than 20% until you have a feel for it. Use cold solutions initially as this gives a slower reaction and you have more time to assess what is happening. Later you can try warm solutions or preheating the blade in hot water--this accelerates the process.

Once you have achieved the desired etch you need to neutralize the acid with a solution of bicarbonate of soda. Some people apply a paste of sodium bicarbonate, although this can smudge the etch. Rinse thoroughly, allow to dry and then apply a light oil.

My early attempts were a matter of trial and error (and still are sometimes). You will find very helpful suggestions about etching blades on the Forum pages if you do a simple search.

Ian.

Again, thank you so very much for your inputs when it comes to this Moro kris.
I really appreciate it and it is a privilege to be a member in this forum!

Best,
Stefan